Coffee came to the Spanish-controlled portion of the island of Hispaniola, what is now the Dominican Republic, in 1735. The first plantings were probably on a hill in Bahoruco Panzo, near Neyba. By the end of the 18th century, coffee had become the second most important crop after sugar, though both relied heavily on slavery until the revolution of 1791.
Coffee production really took root between 1822 and 1844, particularly in the region of Valdesia in the southern mountains. This region contains several coffee-growing areas and became the primary production area in the country by 1880.
By 1956 the country had started to export coffees from specific regions, predominantly Bani, Ocoa and Valdesia. In the 1960s the farmers in these regions became more organized, and a mill was opened in 1967 with 155 members.
As in many coffee-producing countries, the turmoil and unpredictability of prices at the end of the 20th century have lead to a decreased dependence on coffee as an export product. Many producers diversified into beans or avocados, though a good number of them have retained a small amount of coffee in case prices recover.
Although Valdesia is not one of the main government-designated growing regions, they have sought to protect its origin name with the launch, in 2010, of the Café de Valdesia brand.
Crops from the mountainous Barahona region in the Dominican Republic are of especially high quality.
EXPORT VS DOMESTIC CONSUMPTION
Interestingly it seems that since the late 1970s the quantity of coffee produced in the Dominican Republic has varied little, but exports have dropped dramatically. Currently only about twenty per cent of the coffee harvested is sold for export. This is because domestic coffee consumption is relatively high at approximately 3kg (6½lb) per person per year, more than the United Kingdom. In 2007, around half of exports were shipped via Puerto Rico, though this acts as a gateway to the United States. The rest of the coffee was destined for Europe and Japan.
Since 2001, more and more of the coffee destined for export has been organically grown and certified, adding value and revenue to the industry. But while organic production is overall a good thing, it should be reiterated that it does not necessarily make a better cup of coffee.
Some argue that the high domestic consumption of coffee in the Dominican Republic has resulted in lower quality overall, as the coffee is not competing with other exporting countries for this particular market. Nonetheless, there are still great coffees to be found in the Dominican Republic.
TRACEABILITY
While it is possible to get some extremely traceable coffees, usually down to a particular farm, much of what is exported is not particularly traceable past the growing region. These coffees are often graded by bean size, with designations such as ‘Supremo’, which may carry a premium but not one that is based on cup quality.
TASTE PROFILE
Typical of coffees grown on islands, the better lots tend to be quite mild, low to middling in acidity and relatively clean.
GROWING REGIONS
Population: 10,075,000
Number of 60kg (132lb) bags in 2016: 400,000
The climate in the Dominican Republic is a little different to many other coffee-producing countries. It doesn’t have clear seasons, neither in terms of temperature nor in terms of rainfall. This means that coffee production is often taking place, to some extent, throughout the year, though the main harvest tends to be from November to May.
BARAHONA
This region is on the southwest side of the island and the coffee here is grown in the Bahoruco mountain range. The area has established a reputation for high quality, compared to the island’s other regions. Agriculture is the main industry here, and coffee the main product.
| Altitude: | 600−1,300m (2,000–4,300ft) |
| Harvest: | October–February |
| Varieties: | 80% Typica, 20% Caturra |
CIBAO
Coffee is an important product in this region, along with rice and cacao. Cibao is on the north side of the island, and its name means ‘place where rocks abound’. The name refers specifically to the valley between the Central and Septentrional mountain ranges.
| Altitude: | 400–800m (1,300–2,600ft) |
| Harvest: | September–December |
| Varieties: | 90% Typica, 10% Caturra |
CIBAO ALTURA
This region is defined as being the higher-altitude areas within the Cibao region.
| Altitude: | 600−1,500m (2,000–4,900ft) |
| Harvest: | October–May |
| Varieties: | 30% Typica, 70% Caturra |
CENTRAL MOUNTAINS (CORDILLERA CENTRAL)
This mountain range is the highest in the Dominican Republic, and is also known as the ‘Dominican Alps’. The geology of the region is notably different from the surrounding areas so the coffee here is the only coffee on the island that is grown on granite substrate, rather than calcium.
| Altitude: | 600−1,500m (2,000–4,900ft) |
| Harvest: | November–May |
| Varieties: | 30% Typica, 65% Caturra, 5% Catuai |
NEYBA
This region (also spelled Neiba) is named after its capital city, and is in the southwest of the island. The region is quite flat and low and is primarily used for grapes, plantain and sugar, but coffee does grow higher up in the Sierra del Neyba mountains.
| Altitude: | 700−1,400m (2,300–4,600ft) |
| Harvest: | November–February |
| Varieties: | 50% Typica, 50% Caturra |
VALDESIA
This is probably the best known of the growing regions on the island, and has been award a Denomination of Origin to protect the value of its exports. As it is well defined and protected, it has gained a good reputation, and a small premium associated with it.
| Altitude: | 500−1,100m (1,600–3,600ft) |
| Harvest: | October–February |
| Varieties: | 40% Typica, 60% Caturra |